RyanLavner

We knew we were in for a treat when everyone from the head pro to the course superintendent welcomed us with open arms – and, yes, a bottle of Irish whiskey! If there’s only one regret about playing here, it’s that we didn’t have time for 36 holes; in fact, the other course, the Old, might be even better. We found this layout to be eminently playable and fun, but from our tees there was a lack of variety: several holes in the 360- to 380-yard range, with bunkers at the 230-yard mark and a green protected by a trio of bunkers. I was able to navigate the course with help from a yardage book, but others weren’t so fortunate. I’d love to come back and play all 36. It’s quite a piece of property.

On the back end of a 36-hole day, County Sligo was the perfect course to play. Though the front nine wasn’t particularly memorable (save for the dramatically downhill tee shot on the par-5 fifth), the course really opens up around the turn. Both of the back-nine par 3s are spectacular, and if you can push your match to the final few holes (sigh), then you’ll be in for a treat with the watery 15th, windy 16th, brutal 17th and blind 18th. A really solid track, made even better if it’s 70 and sunny, like it was for us.

Frankly I didn’t know much about Enniscrone, but it quickly became – by far – my favorite course on our trip. From the approach into the first green until the final putt, the course is an absolute treat, with a clever blend of long and short and quirky holes, dramatic mounding and incredible conditioning. We were showed around by a member, and he helped us out on a few of the early holes that had blind tee shots. Despite many holes being framed by massive dunes, it wasn’t a terribly hard walk, either. Can’t recommend this place enough. Seriously. Go.

Carne is off the beaten path, but upon arrival you’re immediately greeted by the friendly staff. Of the five courses we played, this was the most difficult, primarily because of the massive elevation changes that wore down this jetlagged golfer. Walking 18 here, one of us discovered, was the equivalent, of hiking up 55 sets of stairs, so this isn’t the type of track you’d want to have on a 36-hole day. In any case, it’s a beautiful course with a memorable closing stretch on 16-18 that is as dramatic as it gets.

We were all really excited to play Ballybunion – even if it was straight off the plane – and it didn’t disappoint. Guided by an excellent father-son team of caddies, we were able to easily navigate some of the course’s distinct elevation changes. The course really shifts around the sixth hole (don’t mind the trailer park to the right), with views of the Atlantic. Two of the three back-nine par 3s are excruciatingly long, particularly into the wind, but they’re still playable if you miss on the proper side. The 17th and 18th holes were a memorable way to cap the round, too. Overall, this is a must-play in Ireland – especially if you can get the two Brians on your bag.